When you walk in, it takes a moment for your eyes to adjust. Even during the day, this place is dark, lit only by a few decorative lights and dim candlelight--perhaps to soften the decor. The walls in the small, narrow dining room are covered with brightly colored tiles; hundreds of chianti bottles hang from the ceiling; and mounds of football-sized wax drippings hold candles on each table.

Pasta and veal are house specialties, though most veal items can be prepared with chicken. The emphasis in all cases is on authenticity, and the simple dishes taste wonderfully homemade. At lunch diners may pair their favorite pasta with their choice of sauce, ranging from elegantly simple olive oil and garlic to the hearty caruso with mushrooms, chicken livers and small meatballs.