Chaotic, informal and just small enough to be intimate, Uptown's Crepe Nanou epitomizes the comfortable neighborhood bistro. The narrow rooms fill quickly, leaving latecomers to contentedly sip cocktails at the bar or wine at sidewalk tables.

Though resisting the haute cuisine aspirations common to French restaurants, Crepe Nanou presents its simple fare with impeccable substance and casual style. From soft, hot-off-the-griddle crepes to more substantial dishes like grilled salmon with Bearnaise, Nanou aims to please the sophisticated average Joe. Best bets? Start with mussels mariniere and crispy house "frites" (french fries). The crabmeat-crawfish coquilles are a creamy variation on the traditional French scallop dish. Crepes stuffed with beef bourguignon are also top-notch. Sweet crepes--filled with everything from coffee ice cream to tender apple filling--rule the dessert menu.