Well-heeled diners and traveling foodies flock to this hot spot. Inside, bare brick is juxtaposed with crystal chandeliers and French provincial furnishings. Three dining areas project distinctly different moods: a comfortably plush main room; a spare, split-level wine cellar; a clubby back room. Staff is razor-sharp and well-informed.

This is definitely elegant romance dining defined.

Their dishes artfully balance intensity and subtlety. Tastes lean toward contemporary French, but they are equally adept at pastas, like oversized ravioli stuffed with egg yolk, truffle and brown butter or lasagna of slow-cooked local rabbit, veal sweetbreads and grilled lobster. Entree winners include stellar Moroccan-spiced duck with seared foie gras.