The black-lacquered, '80s decor has softened into the next century, while the restaurant keeps its promise as a reliable choice for a sophisticated dinner with a good bottle of wine, or after-work cocktails and live jazz. The well-dressed, 35-and-over crowd has no use for trendy--they come to eat and be pampered.

And what better setting for a romantic rendezvous than a little pampering and a little jazz.

The food's flavors and textures pair well in creations like perfectly fried oysters with bacon, roasted parsnips over cheddar grits and pistachio-crusted pork medallions.