It's Valentine's Day every day at this glorious homage to classic French cuisine. The airy and glittering dining room makes everyone feel like a prosperous boulevardier, with its deep red banquettes, gold-leaf sconces and the most lavish flower arrangements this side of the Rose Bowl.

If you enjoy the old French classics you will love their: foie gras with sweet-sharp fig vinegar, quenelles Lyonnaise (pillowy mousses of fresh pike) with an unrepentant wine-cream sauce and the renowned sauteed frog's legs.

A chalky souffle aside, desserts are traditional and satisfying.